Translab TL-175 Shift Kit

DSM W4A33 Transmission

Note: There is now a TL-175-HP kit available, get that one.

The standard TL-175 kit comes with White and Blue shift control springs. The Blue is for harder shifts. It is definitely improved. But I would not recommend using anything less than the Red spring that only comes in the "HP" kit. Most people just recommend going with the Black spring that is also included in the "HP" kit, even for daily driver vehicles. It is just a matter of personal preference. The Black spring makes the transmission downshift harder. Downshifts are less obvious with the Red spring. As explained in the installation instructions, you can turn the reducing valve clockwise (reverse threaded so you are loosening it) to increase the clamping pressure for all gears.

The Translab instructions are very good. These pictures are just for extra reference.

 

Parts needed:

1. Translab shift kit (pick one of the two kits that fits your needs)

2. Transmission filter and pan gasket set (OEM works great)

3. New transmission drain plug gasket (usually the same as the engine oil drain gasket)

4. New transmission fluid (check your manual to get the correct type and number of quarts)

5. Oil drain pan to catch the old transmission oil

6. The "HP" kit comes with the required drill bits. You will need to buy them if you buy the normal kit.

7. Socket wrench and metric sockets. 8-10mm is usually all you need.

8. Drill

 

Some additional notes from Chris Rayburn:

2nd post, after I called translab-

Nevermind guys, I called Translab, and they walked me through the two hole sizes. For anyone else who might need to know this info in the future, the 2nd/4th bands are the WIDE ones, so that hole needs to be drilled to .110, and the front clutch (2-3 feed) hole actually needs to be drilled to .076. (PER TRANSLAB)

Now, after the install, everything is GREAT! I have the black spring, and I adjusted the pressure to the recommended 1/8 inch setting. It shifts great, no clunking! I also did the alto end clutch replacement, and that went fine too! The hardest thing about the shift kit install was getting the valve body off of the transmission. After that, the instructions start to make sense, and all of the sudden, it clicks into your brain that this is not that hard. If you can do a turbo swap, then you can do this!

Later,
Chad Rayburn
1995 TSi AWD

 

Step 1 - drain transmission fluid. The drain plug on the 2G DSM is on the passenger side.

Step 2 - unbolt and remove the transmission oil pan.

Step 3 - remove transmission oil pan gasket and clean up the pan. Soap and water works. Completely dry after.

Step 4 - remove the four trans filter bolts and toss the old filter. Remove the trans dip stick so it does not get damaged.

Step 5 - (Simplified) remove valve body. I bought a cheap plastic storage bin to work in.

Comparison of old and new springs (note: use lint free rags on the transmission parts, I was told this after installing the shift kit. So ignore the paper towels.)

Comparison of old and new springs

Solenoid wire routing and connector orientation

Proper installation of Reducing Valve Plug (after drilling the relief hole)

Coat the new o-ring with petrolium jelly and install on valve body

Drill all of the required holes and add the light weight check balls

Reasemble everything per the Translab instructions

Picture of the completed valve body re-installed

Fluid Recommendation: Diamond ATF SP or equivalent

Seal the transmission pan back on, put the wiring back into place, and put the transmission fluid in. I was told to just put 4 quarts in, start the car, and put the transmission in neutral. Start adding transmission fluid until the sucking sound in the transmission goes away. Next, run the gear selector through all gears slowly, ending in the neutral position, and recheck the fluid level once the transmission is fully warm.

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